How to wire a network cable socket panel? When tying the module according to the color mark, I broke the cable cover first

during renovation, the electrician would introduce 86 network cables into boxes, roll up the wire ends and stuff them inside: "You install the panels yourself, we only handle wiring." I stared blankly at the panel for a long time—I could press the connector, but there wasn't a single socket on the wall socket. Later, I learned that the work on the wall is called "module tapping," which is a different set of gestures from pressing the crystal head, and it's simpler than pressing the crystal head: no need to memorize the wiring sequence, just follow the color code on the module to mark the lines. I messed up the first module—when I closed the dust cover, I snapped two wires. This article breaks down these ten-minute tasks and explains them clearly.

first distinguish two things: the panel is the shell, while the module is the real work

many people search online for "network cable panel wiring" and find two items inside the box after buying parts, they are stunned on the spot. Opening it up, it actually has two layers: the 86 panel is the outer shell, the perforated plastic frame on the wall, responsible for appearance and fixation; network module is the core—a tiny piece about the size of a fingernail, with eight cable slots on top. The wires run onto it, and after it's done, snap the module back into the panel. On the other end of the device, use a crystal connector to plug the connector into the front of the module—one end inside the wall, the other outside the wall. That's how it's connected.

module has two strategies. the line punching is the most classic, requiring a line cutter to push the line into the slot; no-punch is a newer feature. The module comes with a built-in cap, and the wires are arranged according to the color code, and with just one press, it's done—hands-free. Both are compatible, and the price difference is only a few yuan. For those who are not very skilled, I directly recommend the Die Dao. Below, I'll focus on the line type, and I'll mention the Die Fan style.

to correct an obsession: no need to memorize T568B wiring sequences. When pressing the crystal head, you must carry the string of 'orange white orange orange green white blue' blue white green green brown white brown brown because there's no place to print the color mark on the crystal head; The module is printed with two rows of color blocks (one row of A, one row of B). Just insert the lines according to the colors. This is where panel wiring is more user-friendly than the crystal head. For the knowledge of wiring itself, check article on network cable connector wiring. Here, just remember the words 'color marking' and you'll be satisfied.

only two tools: a line throwing knife, and to avoid hassle, just buy a zero-strand module

the list of tools needed for the line-type layout is ridiculously short:

• String Cutter: A dozen yuan per piece, with one end serving as a thread pressing blade (with cutting function) and the other end a small hook to remove the damaged line and re-strike;
• Diagonal pliers or scissors: Strip the thread skin and trim any leftovers; find any at home;
• line tester: not mandatory, but highly recommended, costing dozens of yuan, and the verification step depends entirely on it.

Hassle-free design is even easier: the module plus the included cap, plus a pair of scissors, and that's it. In terms of cost, wire bonding modules cost 5 to 8 yuan each, no-wire modules cost 8 to 15 yuan, 86 panels cost about 10 yuan, and a full set at a point is capped at 20 yuan, much cheaper than having an electrician come to your door.

buying modules, make sure to read "Category 5/Category 6 network modules." Don't buy phone modules—phone modules only have four or two slots, and you'll be stuck with network cables and suffer. Cat6 modules have slightly deeper grooves and thicker cables and hold up better than Cat 5 modules, but they cost one or two yuan; If the wall is embedded with Cat6 cables, then buy Cat6 modules along with them—don't save money on them.

hands-on: Clip the cable according to the color marker, ten minutes per

first cut the module off the panel. There is a clip on the back of the panel; just pluck the module with a fingernail and it comes off. Don't just stab the panel against the wall—first, you can't use any force, and second, it slips and pokes the wall. Then follow this order:

first step: handle the thread ends. Don't rush to cut the yarn in the 86 box; straighten it first, leaving a margin of about 15 centimeters before cutting—why leave it so long? There's a lesson of bleeding in the pit later. Peel off the outer shell about 3 centimeters to avoid damaging the copper core, separate the four pairs of stranded wires, and keep the exposed section of each pair within 13 millimeters. This is similar to the pressure connector: the longer the unwinding, the weaker the anti-interference resistance, which directly affects stability on gigabit links.

Step two: Identify the color code. The module is printed with two rows of color blocks, usually on the side or top. Find the row marked "B" (some print T568B, others have just one B). The eight slots correspond to eight lines, each with a color block: blue, orange, green, and brown. The white line has a white background with a stripe of color, following the same color. No need for pipeline logic; you see a color block, put the color of the line into the slot. This is the only core rule for the whole job.

Step three: Cut the knife. Place the line into the groove, straighten it slightly, align the string knife vertically with the slot, the blade facing the side with excess thread ends, press firmly—with a "click," the line is pressed to the bottom of the groove, and the blade simultaneously cuts off the excess outer thread end. One knife and one knife, eight cuts, eight cuts—the rhythm is strong. If any cut isn't clean, leave some stubble; just use scissors to cut it all the way to the root.