How to separate Mercury routers from 2.4G and 5G? There's no dual-frequency integration in the background; Mercury calls it multi-frequency integration

cousin's family upgraded broadband to 500 Mbps last month. The night they finished installing, they excitedly tested the speed. The phone was near the router, but it only showed about 180 Mbps. He first called the service hall, and the other party checked the wiring and said there was no problem, then suspected the router was broken and almost ordered a new one. Last week, I went to his place for dinner, took out my phone, and checked the WiFi details—it was connected to 2.4G. The router had no issues at all; it was the phone that chose a slow lane and still refused to move.

his Mercury D191G comes from the factory and combines two bands into one WiFi name—what they call 'dual-band integration' in industry. There's only one name: let the device guess the frequency band choices. For the sake of saving power and looking good on signal numbers, phones usually stick to 2.4G. You can do it in the Mercury backend to split the two bands and give them their own names, but many people can't find the switch after checking the settings—because Mercury isn't called 'dual-band integration', it's called multi-frequency integration. This article clearly describes both the entire process and the aftermath.

first confirm which frequency band your phone is connected to

no need to guess, the phone will tell you on its own. For Android, the path is to open the currently connected WiFi in the settings. On the details page, there's a section called "Connection Frequency" or "Band," which says 2.4GHz is the slow lane, 5GHz is the fast lane. My old Honor and one Redmi are both in this location. Some brands have slightly different names, but both are listed in the WiFi details. If the iPhone doesn't show this, you have to take a detour: install a speed app and test it twice. First, stand next to the router to test it, then go to the farthest bedroom to test. If the speed difference between the two times is three or four times, it's probably stuck to 2.4G.

several symptoms are quite accurate. You can first match them: broadband is clearly above 200-300 Mbps, but the speed test is close to the face, stuck between 150 and 200 Mbps; If your phone shows WiFi is full, you can still watch videos during late-night rush hours and keep spinning; The speed test on a new phone actually isn't as good as the old computer at home. If any of these three are in place, it basically means the frequency band was guessed wrong. 2. What exactly are the differences between 4G and 5G, and which devices are suitable for? this real-world comparison article is very detailed. In short: 2.4G penetrates walls far but slowly, 5G is fast but fears walls.

By the way, my cousin's 180MB that night wasn't the 2.4G limit—it was that the band was cramped and narrow. 2.4G is only this wide lane, and the neighbor's WiFi, microwave, and Bluetooth are all packed along this lane, so no one can enjoy the evening rush hour. The 5G lane is about ten times wider, and few neighbors use it yet.

start, make sure to distinguish the three codes and don't break them up

Operations related to frequency bands in the backend are easy to mix up. First, break down the three codes:

the first code is what this article will do: both bands are open, just split the names. 2.4G is called one name, 5G another name, and which device to connect to is up to you. The second is simply turning off one of the bands. For example, on the night of the camera, I temporarily turned off 5G and left only 2.4G. That's another operation—you have to turn it back on after use. I wrote about the switch positions for different brands in my about turning off single-band . The third code is a smart device network configuration failure. If the vacuum cleaner's camera can't detect WiFi or disconnects halfway, it means the device only recognizes 2.4G hardware features. You need to check the from the network setup, which has nothing to do with whether or not to dismantle the device.

cousin wanted to turn off 5G at first, but I stopped him. All my phones, computers, and TVs at home support 5G, but if you turn them off and squeeze all to 2.4G, 500 Mbps broadband is basically a waste. The correct approach is to break down the name: let the frequency picking take your own hands back.

Mercury backend to turn off "multi-frequency integration," the switch is hidden in the owner's network

connect your phone or computer to Mercury's WiFi, enter the browser's address bar to melogin.cn, and enter the management password to enter the backend. If this domain won't open, first check the domain resolve the login issue before coming back. No need to rush for a while. After

the backend, follow this line: Advanced Settings → Wireless Settings → Master Network . On the page, you'll see two sets of settings: 2.4G and 5G, with a master switch labeled "Multi-band Integration"—which is why you can never find "dual-band integration" in the settings. Mercury has adopted their own name. Turn this switch off, and the name and password boxes for the two band immediately change from shared to independent, allowing you to rename them separately. After making changes, click Save. The router may resend WiFi, so disconnecting and reconnecting is normal—just wait about ten seconds.

I also need to explain the two old interfaces. My cousin bought that D191G early. The first batch of firmware was still the traditional interface, and the path was the left menu Wireless Settings → Basic Settings . The multi-band all-in-one switch was just on that page, with exactly the same logic. Later, he upgraded the firmware and switched to a new interface, which is the path mentioned above. So if you notice your backend looks different from others' screenshots, first check which generation the interface is—don't doubt the machine. Also, I checked the Mercury WiFi app and didn't have this switch. Most firmware apps only include common items like name and password changes. To remove bands, you still have to return to the webpage backend, which is the same as the hidden WiFi toggle.

here's a tip: after turning off multi-band integration, it's best not to change the WiFi name and password for both bands back to the same one. Same name, same password—basically another artificial dual-band integration, so the phone keeps guessing, and all the previous attempts are wasted.

three rules for naming: you don't need to reconfigure a single smart device

renaming is the soul of this step. If you pick the right one, it can save you an entire night. My rules are three:

2.4G uses the old name and password. what it was called when the dual-band was integrated, and after unpacking, the 2.4G was still called the same thing, and the password didn't change. The cameras, speakers, vacuum cleaners, and old tablets at home—all devices that only recognize 2.4G—are completely inactive, and not a single device needs to be reconnected to the network. My cousin's family counted at the time: seven smart devices with zero reconfiguration, and that's the value of this step.

5G come up with a new name with a suffix. For example, the original one was called shudi-WiFi, and the new one is called shudi-WiFi_5G—instantly recognizable as the fast lane. Don't use Chinese for names. Some old printers and old TVs can't find WiFi with Chinese names. This mentioned in the about renaming.

password can be entered for the same frequency band. some people think passwords should be set separately and unnecessary. The purpose of passwords is to prevent internet access, not to distinguish frequency bands and make them easier to remember. For the proper way to change passwords and anti-internet anti-internet actions, is enough.

after disassembly, which one connects to whom, a chart is clearly arranged. After taking it apart

, all the devices are restored according to the table below. The actual measured numbers from the night my cousin's house finished disassembly are also here

cousin's phone to manually connect to the new 5G name, and the speed test at the same location jumped from 180 Mbps to 486 Mbps. Only then is 500 Mbps broadband truly deserved. The old desktop in his study only used a USB network card that recognized 2.4G, so it was left untouched and couldn't run very fast. Here's a common dilemma: if your bedroom device has only two bars of 5G signal left, which one should you connect to? My experience depends on usage: if you occasionally watch videos, 2.4GB is reliable; if you upload large files daily, try to get closer to 5GB. Don't go head-to-head with a two-bar 5G. If the retransmission rate is high, the actual speed is worse than a full-frame 2.4GB.

if you have other brands of devices at home, I've written two versions of the same procedure: Xiaomi's entry point is in the WiFi settings under 'Frequently Used' settings, and you can the Xiaomi version ; The telecom optical modem with built-in WiFi is hidden deep in the Tianyi gateway backend, so Tianyi Edition . The principle is the same: just turn off the main switch.

which families are worth dismantling, and which families don't bother with it

After the dismantling was a week old, my cousin's family reported that their phone never got stuck during the evening rush hour, and the tablet for their child's online classes was stuck to 5G and never failed. But not everyone should do this, so here's a checklist:

Here's the order at the end: First, check which band your phone is connected to in the WiFi details, then go to the background app and turn off multi-band integration. 2.4G uses the old name, 5G adds a new suffix to the new name, connects your phone and computer to 5G one by one, and keeps your smart device in place. The whole process takes about ten minutes, and you don't need a single tool. On the night you finish disassembly, remember to test the speed once next to the router and in the furthest bedroom. Place the two numbers side by side, and you'll know if those ten minutes were worth it.