What should be inspected on the day of telecom broadband installation? The driver said if you can get online, you want to leave. After testing these five things, you can let him go

last month, my cousin started a new home installation with 500Mbps telecom broadband. After the technician finished welding fiber and registered for the optical modem, he said, "Alright, we can get online," packed his toolbox, and was ready to leave. I happened to be mooching a meal there and stopped him—after testing five items, he left. With just this one decision, he found a disguised luminous decay on the spot. The next month, neighbors came to report the same problem, and his family never made the same mistake.

first thing: test your speed with a network cable—don't let your phone connect to WiFi and get by

the technician shows you "tested," most of them are just using their own phone to connect to WiFi and run it, or simply checking the network status in the optical modem backend to be normal. What you need to do is find a network cable, plug the computer directly into the optical modem's network port, 1 run a speed test yourself.

Why must

port 1? Most optical modems only have network port 1 as a gigabit port; the rest are either 100Mbps or IPTV-only. If you plug it incorrectly, it shows 93Mbps. You might think broadband is shrinking, but it's actually a port issue. I've tested this once. A colleague plugged their computer into the IPTV port, tested gigabit broadband for three months, and even thought they were being slowed. I wrote an article on how exactly to recognize the ports distinguishing between optical modems, gigabit and hundred-megabit ports.

test, pause all other data-consuming devices at home: stop playing on the TV box and pause all downloads on your computer. Otherwise, you're measuring the total shared among the whole family, and if it's low, you can't tell who's to blame.

cousin's 500Mbps plan, actual cable test measured 478Mbps, running up to 95%, that's qualified. Here's a thick line for judgment: if the package is below 90%, let the technician check on the spot; Around 93MB, first see which port you plugged in. Don't take the number measured from your phone's WiFi connection. WiFi itself needs to be discounted, and every wall can lower a level. You can't tell the problem with broadband just by that number. If you want to test carefully, check out my speed test .

second item: enter 192.168.2.1 on the spot, and write down the base light decay numbers

Among

five items, this is the most valuable. Open 192.168.2.1 in your mobile or computer browser, log in with the regular account on the sticker (usually called the useradmin group, password is the same as the sticker), and find 'Receiving Light Power' in 'Status →Device Info'. That negative number is the light decay.

caliber is easy to remember: -8 to -27 is considered healthy, the closer to -20, the better; Above -27, you're on the threshold; anything beyond -30 is basically dangerous. My cousin's first reading was -26.8, stuck on the edge. I said the count was off, but the technician stubbornly insisted it was normal. He squatted down and ran along the wire to find the door frame section was bent by the wire clip—fiber optics are sensitive to bending, not pulling. The bending radius is less than 5 centimeters, so the light degradation keeps rising. After rerouting the wires and remelting a head, the reading returned to -21.5, and only then was the installation truly complete.

take a photo of this number and save it, with the date on it. Why do you have to copy it the same day? Optical paths age, cold joints oxidize water ingress, power drops after three to five years of use, and light degradation gradually climbs up year by year. The reading on the day of installation is your home's 'factory baseline.' Comparing it with the new reading at any future point in time makes it clear how much has increased. My cousin's PC was -21.5 on the day of installation, and after half a year, I checked it for him at -22.3. It had increased by less than 1 dB, which is normal aging; if it ever jumped to -28, then it's time to hire a technician—no need to wait until the internet drops before taking action.

when reporting for repair, I just said, 'Light degradation was -21 on the day of installation, -29 now.' The technician would come to the site with a fusion fiber machine to fix it; For those who can't give a clear answer, the first trip is basically to scout empty-handed. I've written separately about the three tips for splitting and self-checking light decay, which are included in the of the light decay special topic.

Third item: Change two passwords to your own

technician installs the PC quickly, and the WiFi name defaults to something like ChinaNet-XXXX. The password is either the last digit of the phone or a string of sequences. The admin password for the optical modem backend is probably typed by him casually. Once the person leaves, these two sets of passwords become your secret door—the installation info is lying in their system.

do it yourself: WiFi name and password in the "Network → WLAN Settings" section, change the SSID name and WPA pre-shared key boxes all at once, fill in the same for both 2.4G and 5G, then reconnect the entire home device. I wrote screenshots of each step in the article Change the optical modem WiFi password . If you plan to check the status yourself in the backend management password later, you can also change it to your own. After the modification, take a piece of paper and clearly stick it in the weak current box. It's more reliable than storing a phone—the phone will be replaced, but the weak current box won't.

one more thing: for things like changing WiFi names and passwords, a regular useradmin account is enough—there's no need to fuss over super passwords. If you really want to do those big bridging tricks, that's another topic. I've memorized the rules in the of Super Password.

Fourth item: If you have an IPTV list, join the list to watch the live broadcast and let the technician identify the

the set-top box lights up, it doesn't mean the IPTV is installed. Have the technician pull up the live stream list and randomly pick two HD channels to watch for a few minutes—screen garbledness, mosaic, loading and spinning. All are mismatched group broadcasts, and doing them on the spot is ten times faster than reporting for repairs afterward. The first time my cousin's house changed the channel, the CCTV-5 HD only lagged for half a minute before it came out. The technician had to restart the set-top box once before it ran smoothly. If you don't keep an eye on things like this, he won't take the initiative to say anything.

then pulled the technician to clarify two things: which port the set-top box cable plugged into optical modem (many IPTV models use dedicated ports, not the same as the router's network port 1), and the IPTV VLAN listed in the work order . He took out his phone and snapped a photo. From now on, if you use the optical modem or switch to bridge, and the IPTV screen goes black, these two messages are lifesaving. When I lost my IPTV after switching to bridge, I managed to fix it by copying VLAN. This is written in the post-bridge IPTV rescue .